Gunung Kawi, also known as Pura Gunung Kawi or Gunung Kawi Temple, is a unique temple complex and tomb of kings. This ancient architectural monument is located in the village of Tampaksiring, just 13 kilometers from Ubud.
Gunung Kawi is situated in the picturesque gorge of the Pakerisan River (Tukad Pakerisan). To reach the temple, visitors must descend more than 300 steps that wind through rice terraces and tunnels leading to a rectangular passage carved into the rock.
The complex is generally divided into three main zones:
1. Tombs of King Anak Wungsu and his family.
2. The Hindu temple of Gunung Kawi.
3. Buddhist and monastic cells.
Tombs of the King and His Family
Within the site are ten tombs (chandi), each 7–8 meters tall. These monumental memorials are carved into the cliffs and adorned with bas-reliefs reminiscent of burial towers.
The tombs are split into two groups:
• Eastern bank of the river: The first five tombs, referred to as “false” because they contain no remains, are dedicated to King Anak Wungsu, his parents (Udayana and Mahendradatta), and his brothers (Airlangga and Marakata). The central tomb features an inscription reading “Haji Lumahing Jalu,” which translates to “the king established a temple here.”
• Western bank of the river: The remaining five tombs are called “true” tombs, as they were intended for the king’s wives and concubines. One of these, known as Griya Pedanda, is dedicated to Anak Wungsu’s minister, who held a high position at court.
The Hindu Temple
Gunung Kawi Temple is located on the western side of the river and features traditional Balinese gates called candi bentar (“split candi”), marking the entrance to the temple.
The temple consists of two courtyards:
• Outer courtyard: Contains utility buildings and areas for the temple staff.
• Inner courtyard: The central section open to visitors. Inside, there is an altar, statues of Hindu deities, pavilions, and a koi pond fed by sacred springs.
Buddhist and Monastic Cells
Caves carved into the cliffs beneath the tombs were used by Buddhist monks for meditation. There are also stone cells for Hindu priests, built from monolithic blocks. Visitors are allowed to enter these cells only without shoes, as a sign of respect for the sacred site.
Walks and Surroundings
Tourists can explore paths leading to a waterfall, where bathing is believed to bestow blessings and purification. Along the way, you can also enjoy the views of rice terraces and jungle enveloping the temple complex.
Historical Significance
The complex was constructed around 1080 AD during the reign of the Udayana dynasty. The chandi architecture resembles Javanese mausoleums, which may be linked to the lineage of Anak Wungsu’s mother. However, Balinese chandi are unique in that they are hewn directly out of solid rock and have no interior space.
Visitor Tips
• Dress code: A sarong is required (available for rent at the entrance).
• Best time to visit: Early morning to avoid the heat and large crowds.
• Duration of visit: Plan at least 1.5–2 hours.
Gunung Kawi is not just an ancient monument but a place where religious traditions merge with natural beauty. A visit here leaves a lasting impression thanks to its unique atmosphere, rich history, and breathtaking landscapes.
Gunung Kawi Sebatu is a tranquil temple complex set amidst rice terraces and scenic roads in the village of Sebatu, near Ubud. Renowned for its serene atmosphere and peaceful setting, it offers a welcoming escape for those seeking solitude and harmony.
Key Features of the Temple
1. Pond with Colorful Koi
At the heart of the complex lies a large pond populated by vibrant koi fish, which you can feed by purchasing fish food on-site. Koi are considered symbols of luck and prosperity, so many visitors view feeding them as a kind of ritual to attract good fortune.
2. Bird Enclosures
The grounds also feature enclosures housing various birds. You’re free to watch and even interact with them—some can mimic words, adding a special sense of connection with nature.
3. Sacred Springs and Bathing Pools
The temple is famous for its crystal-clear springs. Anyone may rinse their face or bathe here. Balinese people believe the water has purifying and healing qualities, and many visitors come to perform a cleansing ritual that helps relieve stress, dispel negativity, and restore inner balance.
4. Padmasana Throne
One of the temple’s highlights is the Padmasana Throne, dedicated to the god Vishnu. Perched at the center of the water, it appears to hover above the surface, symbolizing divine presence. Adorned with intricate carvings, this sacred site is a focal point of the complex.
5. Lush Greenery
The temple is surrounded by abundant vegetation, including numerous trees, flowering shrubs, and other plants. The peaceful setting invites meditation, leisurely walks, and spiritual practice.
Atmosphere and Uniqueness
Gunung Kawi Sebatu remains relatively undiscovered by most tourists, so it’s rarely crowded. The tranquility of this place allows visitors to immerse themselves in the natural surroundings, history, and religious significance without the usual bustle and noise.
Practical Information for Visitors
• Dress Code: A sarong is required before entering (available for rent).
• Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat.
• Recommended Duration: Plan for about 1–1.5 hours to fully explore.
Gunung Kawi Sebatu is a place where nature, religion, and architecture come together to create an extraordinary experience. A visit to the temple promises unforgettable impressions and a chance to soak up its serene, harmonious atmosphere.
Territory Between the Sacred Pakerisan and Petanu Rivers
The region between the sacred Pakerisan and Petanu Rivers in Bali has long been shrouded in myths and legends. These places are not only naturally beautiful but also deeply connected to the island’s history and spirituality.
Origins of the Rivers and Their Legends
In Balinese, the name “Pakerisan” translates to “Keris River,” referencing the sacred ceremonial dagger that resembles a double-edged sword. The second river, Petanu, is known as the “cursed river.”
One legend links the rivers’ origins to a battle between the god Indra and the demigod Maya Danawa. During their clash, Maya Danawa struck his staff against the ground, creating the Petanu River, which he then cursed. Suffering from thirst, the people appealed to Indra for help. In response, he created a holy spring that gave rise to the Pakerisan River. Today, the temple Tirta Empul stands at the spring’s location.
However, there is another version of this legend. It suggests that the holy spring was created not at Tirta Empul, but rather at the Gunung Kawi Sebatu Temple. To this day, there is no definitive proof favoring one story over the other, which is why both sites are considered sacred and are revered by local Balinese.
History of Gunung Kawi
The Gunung Kawi Temple and tombs were discovered in 1920 by a Dutch archaeologist, whose name was unfortunately not recorded. At the time of discovery, the temple was situated within a rock cave partially destroyed by an earthquake. Research indicates that these structures date back to the late 11th century, with the specific year of construction identified as 1080.
Debates on the Tombs’ Creation and Purpose
There are two main theories regarding the origin of the tombs:
1. The first theory states that the burials date to the 10th century, during the reign of King Udayana, who was the father of Anak Wungsu.
2. The second theory proposes that the tombs were built in the 11th century by order of King Anak Wungsu in honor of his parents.
Even today, archaeologists cannot confirm whether the royal family members were actually buried here. Religious prohibitions prevent any dismantling of the structures for further examination.
Contradictions with Hindu Traditions
According to Hindu practice, cremation is considered the only proper method of burial, ensuring the soul’s quicker reincarnation. After cremation, the ashes are typically scattered over the ocean. Consequently, many scholars believe that the Gunung Kawi tombs are symbolic and do not hold any remains.
Legends About Gunung Kawi’s Creation
One account suggests that the reliefs were carved overnight by the demon Kebo Iwa with his own fingernails, either under orders from King Anak Wungsu or simply out of mischief. Another myth claims that a temple once stood on the site of Gunung Kawi and that the tombs were added later. The complex gained its sacred status thanks to a holy spring said to have been granted by the god Vishnu to replace a river contaminated by the demon’s blood.
Mysteries of Gunung Kawi
The Gunung Kawi complex remains a place filled with enigmas and unanswered questions. The legends surrounding it interweave reality and myth, leaving its true history forever cloaked in mystery.